GEEO Northern Balkans Google Earth Presentation

— Stop 1 —

USA

Today, I’d like to share a great experience I had while traveling to Europe through a non-profit organization called GEEO. GEEO helps educators travel abroad so that they can learn more about different cultures to share with their students. I was joined on my trip by educators and retired teachers from all around the United States.

— Stop 2 —

Europe

We traveled across the Atlantic Ocean from North America to Europe. Europe and Asia share a long land border to the east, but Europe is conventionally understood as a separate continent—one of seven on Earth. The ancient Greeks are the ones who created the concept of continents as we think of them today.

— Stop 3 —

The Balkans

Our journey took us to a fascinating region of Europe called the Balkans, also called the Balkans Peninsula, the easternmost of Europe’s three great southern peninsulas—the other two are the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) and the Italian Peninsula.

The Balkan Peninsula gets its name from the Balkan Mountains in Bulgaria. The region typically includes Albania, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Croatia, Kosovo, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, and Slovenia, as well as portions of Greece and Turkey.

The Balkans have an incredibly complex and rich history. For millennia, this region has been a crossroads where different civilizations, cultures, and empires have met and interacted. The Ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantine Empire, and Ottoman Empire all left their mark here. This mixing of cultures over centuries has created the unique character of the Balkans today.

The Balkans is special because it is incredibly diverse. Over 20 different languages are spoken here. Three major religions—Christianity (both Eastern Orthodox and Catholic), Islam, and Judaism—have coexisted in the Balkans for centuries. Each country has its own distinct culture, traditions, and history, yet they also share many common influences.

The 20th century was brutal for the Balkans. The region experienced two Balkan Wars (1912-1913), both World Wars, and the Yugoslav Wars (1991-2001). Many of these countries are younger than your parents—Kosovo became independent in 2008, and North Macedonia just changed its name in 2019. You’ll still see bullet holes in buildings from the 1990s.

Today, the region is much more stable, with many countries joining or working toward European Union membership.

— Stop 4 —

Hungary

Our trip began in the country of Hungary. Hungary isn’t technically part of the Balkans, but it shares a border with the region and has been intertwined with Balkan history at several important times.

• Mongol Invasion: During the Middle Ages, the Kingdom of Hungary and much of the Balkans were invaded by the Mongols. Have you heard about the Mongols? They were a nomadic people—meaning they moved from place to place rather than living in permanent settlements—who originated from the grasslands of Central Asia. They were led by one of history’s most famous conquerors, Genghis Khan. The Mongol Empire became the largest contiguous empire in history. “Contiguous” means connected in one continuous area, not broken up into separate pieces. The Mongol Empire stretched all the way from Eastern Europe to Indonesia! Their forces devastated much of Hungary, including the capital city of Budapest, before eventually being defeated by a coalition of European forces working together.
• The Habsburg and Ottoman Empires: Hungary later became part of what was known as the Habsburg Empire, a powerful European empire ruled by the Habsburg family from Austria. During this time, Hungary came into conflict with another empire called the Ottoman Empire, which was based in what is now Turkey and controlled much of the Balkans. Hungary became the main battleground where these two empires clashed for more than 250 years! Despite the devastating impact of these Ottoman-Habsburg wars, Hungary was eventually able to recover and regain its independence.
• World Wars: Hungary fought alongside Germany in both World War I as part of the Central Powers and World War II as part of the Axis powers. The country suffered significant damage, casualties, and loss of territory as a result.
• Soviet Domination: After World War II, Hungary and the Balkans came under the domination of the Soviet Union, which was a communist superpower that controlled much of Eastern Europe. Hungary was forced to adopt a communist system of government and couldn’t make its own decisions—the Soviet Union controlled what happened there.
• Independence and Democracy: Finally, after the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, Hungary became a free, independent democracy. The country has made significant progress and eventually joined the European Union, which is an organization of European countries that work together economically and politically.

— Stop 5 —

Budapest

We visited Budapest, the capital city of Hungary. Here’s an interesting fact: what is today known as Budapest was once three separate cities. One was called Óbuda, another Buda, and the third Pest. They all merged into one city, Budapest, in 1873. You can still see this division today—the Danube River runs through the middle of the city, with Buda on one side and Pest on the other!

— Stop 6 —

Hungarian Parliament Building

The Hungarian Parliament meets in this magnificent building on the banks of the Danube River in the former “Pest” part of the city. This is the largest building in Hungary and the third-largest Parliament building in the entire world. Construction started in 1885 and took 19 years to complete, finishing in 1904.

The building is a beautiful example of Gothic Revival architecture, which means it was designed to look like the grand medieval buildings from hundreds of years ago. It has an impressive dome, elaborate decorations, and sits right on the riverbank where it’s beautifully reflected in the water.

— Stop 7 —

Buda Castle

On the other side of the Danube River, in the “Buda” part of the city, sits Buda Castle. This impressive structure was built in the 14th century and was once home to the Hungarian royal family—the kings and queens who ruled Hungary.

Today, the castle no longer houses royalty. Instead, it’s home to two important museums: the Hungarian National Gallery, which displays Hungarian art, and the Budapest History Museum, which tells the story of the city from ancient times to the present.

— Stop 8 —

Serbia

Next, we traveled by train from Budapest to the country of Serbia. Let me give you some background on Serbia’s complex history.

• Ottoman Rule and Independence: In the late 15th century, Serbia became part of the Ottoman Empire. Remember, the Ottoman Empire was often at war with the Habsburg Empire and Austria-Hungary. Serbia remained under Ottoman control for about 350 years before finally gaining its independence in 1878, when it became the Kingdom of Serbia, ruled by its own king. But this independence didn’t last long.
• The Formation of Yugoslavia: During World War I, Serbia was invaded by Austria-Hungary and suffered heavy losses. After the war ended in 1918, Serbia unified with several other Slavic groups in the Balkans to form a new, larger country called the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. After World War II, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia was transformed into the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. It became a communist country under the leadership of Josip Broz Tito. Tito was a communist revolutionary who had fought against the Nazis during World War II. Tito was in power in Yugoslavia from 1945 until his death in 1980. Unlike other communist countries in Eastern Europe, Yugoslavia under Tito was somewhat independent from the Soviet Union and had its own unique form of communism.
• The Breakup of Yugoslavia: Tito’s death in 1980 led to growing political instability in Yugoslavia. Different ethnic groups within the country began to have conflicts with each other, and nationalism—strong feelings of loyalty to your own ethnic group or nation—grew stronger. During the 1990s and early 2000s, Yugoslavia fractured into several smaller countries and saw a series of violent conflicts. There were wars in Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Kosovo. These wars were often fueled by ethnic tensions—conflicts between different ethnic groups, like Serbs, Croats, and Bosniaks, who had lived together in Yugoslavia but had different religions, languages, and cultures.

The Yugoslav wars resulted in the deaths of 130,000-140,000 people, many of whom were civilians. The most devastating of these wars was in Bosnia. Serbia was one of the main participants in this war, and many of Serbia’s leaders from that time have been tried by the International Criminal Court for war crimes and genocide.

NATO, which is a military alliance of many Western countries including the United States, eventually intervened in 1995 and brought the war in Bosnia to an end. Later, NATO also intervened to stop violence in Kosovo in 1999.

Since the end of the Yugoslav Wars in the early 2000s, tensions in the region have settled down, and now the Balkan countries live in peace with one another. Serbia is now an independent country with a parliamentary republic—a democratic government where citizens elect representatives to parliament. However, Serbia still faces some political challenges with democratic reforms and good governance.

— Stop 9 —

Novi Sad

After a full day on the train from Hungary, we arrived in a city called Novi Sad (pronunciation). Novi Sad is Serbia’s second-largest city and is located on the banks of the Danube—the same river that flows through Budapest. The Danube is the second-longest river in Europe, and it flows through or borders ten different countries. It’s been an important transportation route for thousands of years.

— Stop 10 —

Petrovaradin Fortress

While in Novi Sad, we visited the Petrovaradin (pronunciation) Fortress, which sits on a hill overlooking the Danube River. This impressive fortress was built in the 18th century by the Austrians and was used as a military stronghold to protect the region from Ottoman attacks.

The fortress was actually built over the site of an earlier fortress that the Austrians had constructed in 1692 as part of their efforts to push the Ottoman Empire out of the region. That first fortress wasn’t as extensive as the one that stands today. The Austrians expanded it over many decades, and it became one of the most important defensive positions in the region.

Today, the fortress is an important landmark in Novi Sad. It houses several museums and hosts festivals, and it offers stunning views of the Danube River and the city of Novi Sad. Visitors can walk along the fortress walls and enjoy the panoramic views of the surrounding area.

One interesting feature of the fortress is its clock tower, which has a clock that runs backwards! The minute hand is longer than the hour hand, which is the opposite of normal clocks. This was designed so that fishermen on the river far below could tell the time from a distance.

— Stop 11 —

Stari Grad

We also explored the city center, called “Stari Grad” (pronunciation), which means “Old Town” in Serbian. The neighborhood is charming and picturesque. It’s known for its narrow streets, old buildings, and historic churches.

One of the notable churches is the 18th-century Catholic Church of the Name of Mary, which has a beautiful baroque facade and sits in the center of the old town. The neighborhood has a relaxed, European cafe culture, with outdoor seating where people enjoy coffee and conversation.

— Stop 12 —

Belgrade

Next, we took a short train ride from Novi Sad to Belgrade, Serbia’s capital and largest city. Belgrade is also located on the Danube River, at the point where it combines with another river called the Sava. This strategic location at the confluence—the meeting point—of two major rivers has made Belgrade an important city throughout history.

Belgrade is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe and the world. People have been living at this site for thousands of years! The city was very important in ancient and medieval history.

Belgrade was constantly being fought over during the Habsburg-Ottoman wars. Sometimes the Ottomans controlled it, sometimes the Austrians controlled it, and the city changed hands many times. During these conflicts, much of the city was destroyed and then rebuilt.

Both the Ottomans and Austrians constructed new buildings in the city. Many of these buildings can still be seen today: mosques and hammams—Turkish baths—built under the Ottomans, and baroque-style fortresses and churches built under the Austrians.

The city was subjected to heavy bombing during World War II, when it was occupied by Nazi Germany. Then, decades later, Belgrade suffered significant damage to its infrastructure and buildings again during the Kosovo War from bombings by NATO forces in 1999. NATO bombed Serbia to try to stop the violence in Kosovo.

The damage and loss of many historic buildings and landmarks from these conflicts left the city in need of repair and restoration. As a result, Belgrade is not as consistently picturesque as some other European cities—you’ll see a mix of beautiful old buildings alongside newer, more utilitarian structures. But this long, complex history gives the city a unique character.

— Stop 13 —

Kalemegdan Fortress

This fortress, called Kalemegdan (pronunciation), has served as a defensive structure for various empires and kingdoms over the centuries. It was the main defensive fortification for the city of Belgrade under the Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, and others. The fortress was the site of countless battles and sieges—situations where an army surrounds a city or fortress and tries to force the people inside to surrender.

Kalemegdan is a symbol of the resilience and strength of the people of Belgrade, who have overcome centuries of conflict and adversity to build a vibrant and diverse city. Today, the fortress is a beautiful park where locals come to relax, and it offers wonderful views of the rivers and the city.

— Stop 14 —

Museum of Yugoslavia

The Museum of Yugoslavia is made up of three buildings that commemorate the history of Yugoslavia and its leader, Josip Broz Tito. The museum preserves artifacts, documents, and gifts that Tito received from world leaders during his time in power.

Tito’s final resting place is in the central building, which is called the House of Flowers. After Tito died in 1980, people from all over Yugoslavia brought flowers to honor him, and the tradition gave the building its name. Visiting this museum provides insight into Yugoslavia’s unique position during the Cold War and Tito’s role in trying to keep the diverse country united.

— Stop 15 —

Bosnia and Herzegovina

After spending some time in Belgrade, we left Serbia and crossed into the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bosnia and Herzegovina is one country with two regions—Bosnia in the north and Herzegovina in the south. People often refer to it as just “Bosnia” for short.

The countryside of Bosnia and Herzegovina is absolutely beautiful, with mountainous terrain, deep gorges, and beautiful turquoise rivers and lakes. The country is almost entirely landlocked, meaning it has almost no access to the ocean. Croatia wraps around Bosnia and Herzegovina on the north and west, leaving it with only a tiny stretch of coastline on the Adriatic Sea—just about 12 miles!

Bosnia and Herzegovina has a unique blend of eastern and western influences. You’ll see both Muslim and Christian landmarks throughout the country, highlighting its tumultuous history as a place where the Ottoman Empire and the Austro-Hungarian Empire came into conflict.

This mix of influences is visible in everything from architecture to food to religious sites. It’s one of the few places in Europe where you’ll find mosques, Catholic churches, and Orthodox churches all in close proximity, reflecting the country’s diverse population.

— Stop 16 —

Sarajevo

The capital city is Sarajevo, which is surrounded by a mountain range called the Dinaric Alps. These are some of the most rugged and extensive mountainous areas in Europe, and they create a dramatic backdrop for the city.

Sarajevo is a beautiful city, but it was ravaged by the Bosnian War in the 1990s. During the war, the city was under siege for nearly four years—from 1992 to 1996—which was the longest siege of a capital city in the history of modern warfare. During this time, the city was surrounded by forces who cut off supplies, and civilians inside the city faced constant danger from snipers and artillery fire.

Today, Sarajevo’s restored historic center is full of welcoming cafes, and the bullet holes that once marked the city’s buildings have largely been plastered over and repaired. However, you can still see some marks from the war if you look carefully. The city has worked hard to rebuild and move forward while also remembering what happened.

Sarajevo has a unique blend of cultures and religions. The city offers visitors a fascinating mix of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Yugoslav influences in its architecture, food, and traditions. It’s a place where East meets West in a very tangible way.

— Stop 17 —

Assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand

Sarajevo is infamous for being the location of an assassination that took place at this spot just north of the Latin Bridge on June 28, 1914. The Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie were assassinated here by a young Bosnian Serb named Gavrilo Princip.

Does anyone know why the assassination was so significant? It sparked a war between Austria-Hungary and Serbia. But because of a series of alliances and treaties between European countries, the conflict soon escalated. One country after another got pulled into the war. This local conflict in the Balkans ultimately became World War I, which killed over 38 million people and reshaped much of the world. It’s remarkable how one event in this small part of the Balkans set off a chain of events that led to a global war.

— Stop 18 —

Religion in Sarajevo

Due to its long history of cultural and religious diversity and coexistence, Sarajevo is sometimes called the “Jerusalem of Europe.” In one neighborhood, called (pronunciation), there are multiple mosques, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and an old synagogue that is now the Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina—all within walking distance of each other!

This religious diversity highlights how the city has been at the crossroads of various empires and cultures throughout history. During the Ottoman period, Muslim communities thrived here. Under Austro-Hungarian rule, Catholic and Jewish communities grew. And Orthodox Christians have lived in the region for over a thousand years.

— Stop 19 —

Sarajevo Tunnel

We visited the “Tunnel of Hope,” which played a crucial role in the survival of the people of Sarajevo during the siege of the city in the mid-1990s. This tunnel is located beneath the Sarajevo Airport runway.

During the siege, Sarajevo was completely surrounded by forces who were trying to force the city to surrender. The airport was controlled by the United Nations, which meant that technically it was neutral ground. But this also meant that people couldn’t cross it to get supplies into the besieged city.

The tunnel was built by soldiers from the Bosnian Army and civilians working together in 1993. They dug by hand, working in secret, with the aim of providing a lifeline to the city. The tunnel was about 800 meters long—that’s almost half a mile!—and connected the city to the free territory on the other side of the airport.

The tunnel was used to transport food, medicine, weapons, and other supplies into the city. It was also used to evacuate wounded people and to allow people to escape the siege. The tunnel was absolutely vital—without it, many more people would have died during the siege.

Today, a section of the tunnel is open to visitors as a museum. We visited the tunnel, the airport area, and the house of a brave Bosnian family who allowed the tunnel to be dug on their property, despite the enormous risk to their own safety. We heard firsthand accounts from people who lived through the siege about the horrors of the war and the resilience of the people of Sarajevo.

— Stop 20 —

Mostar

Our next stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina was the city of Mostar, which is considered the cultural capital of the Herzegovina region.

The name of the city comes from the Serbo-Croatian word “most,” which means “bridge.” The city’s Old Bridge, called Stari Most, was the most important bridge in the area, crossing the Neretva River. Over time, people who guarded the bridge were called “mostari” (bridge keepers), and eventually the name “Mostar” came to be used for the entire city.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, Mostar became an important center of the Ottoman Empire, and many of its most iconic buildings and structures were built during this period. The city developed as a typical Ottoman town, with a bazaar, mosques, and the famous bridge connecting the two sides of the city.

During the Bosnian War in the 1990s, Mostar was heavily damaged. The city was divided, with different ethnic groups controlling different parts. Tragically, the Old Bridge was deliberately destroyed on November 9, 1993.

After the war ended, a project was set in motion to reconstruct the bridge. International experts and local craftspeople worked together to rebuild the bridge using traditional methods and materials. The rebuilt bridge opened on July 23, 2004. It was an emotional moment for the people of Mostar, because the bridge’s reconstruction symbolized hope for reconciliation and rebuilding.

— Stop 21 —

Stari Most (Old Bridge)

The Old Bridge, built by the Ottomans in the 16th century, is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most recognizable landmarks. It’s an elegant arch bridge made of local stone, spanning the emerald-green Neretva River.

The bridge stood for 427 years until its destruction in 1993. Its reconstruction was a major international project involving UNESCO, the World Bank, and many other organizations. The new bridge was built using the same techniques and materials as the original.

During the summer months, there’s a centuries-old tradition of brave divers jumping off the bridge into the cold Neretva River below. The jump is almost 80 feet. There’s even an annual diving competition held every July.

Today, the bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Do you know what a UNESCO World Heritage Site is? It is a landmark or area designated by the United Nations for having cultural or historical significance. The program is intended to conserve sites for future generations.

— Stop 22 —

Montenegro

Next, we visited Montenegro, a small but beautiful Balkan country. Montenegro has rugged mountains—it’s so mountainous that the name “Montenegro” literally means “Black Mountain.”

After Yugoslavia broke apart in the early 1990s, Montenegro initially remained paired with Serbia. The two countries formed a loose union called Serbia and Montenegro. However, Montenegro voted for full independence in a referendum in 2006 and peacefully became its own country.

Montenegro is one of Europe’s newest countries, and it’s working toward joining the European Union. Despite being small, it’s becoming an increasingly popular destination for visitors because of its stunning natural beauty.

— Stop 23 —

Bay of Kotor

In Montenegro, we visited the Bay of Kotor, which is one of the most beautiful natural harbors in Europe. The bay resembles a fjord—a long, narrow inlet of the sea between tall cliffs—though technically it’s not a fjord because it wasn’t carved by glaciers.

The entire bay is dotted with coastal churches and fortified towns. The bay is surrounded by steep mountains that rise straight up from the water’s edge, creating an absolutely stunning and dramatic landscape. The contrast between the deep blue water and the gray mountains is spectacular.

— Stop 24 —

Kotor

We stayed in the town of Kotor, which sits at the very end of the bay and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old town of Kotor is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the entire Mediterranean region.

The old town is surrounded by ancient defensive walls that don’t just surround the town at ground level—they actually climb up the mountainside behind the town! The walls snake up the steep mountain for almost 3 miles, with a fortress at the top. It’s quite a hike to climb up to the fortress, but the views of the bay from the top are absolutely incredible. These walls were built over many centuries, with some parts dating back to the 9th century. They protected the town from attacks by land and sea.

The old town of Kotor was built by the Republic of Venice, which was a powerful city-state and maritime republic that existed for over one thousand years before the modern country of Italy was created. Venice controlled this part of the coast for centuries, and you can see the Venetian influence in the architecture—narrow streets, arched passageways, stone buildings, and small squares.

— Stop 25 —

Croatia

From Montenegro, we traveled to the fifth and final country that we visited during our program, Croatia. Croatia is located on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, which was a very important branch of the Mediterranean Sea for the ancient Greeks and Romans.

Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the later part of Yugoslavia. In 1991, Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia, which led to a period of conflict and war that ended in 1995. Croatia has since become a stable and prosperous democracy, joining the European Union in 2013.

— Stop 26 —

Dubrovnik

From Montenegro, we traveled to the fifth and final country on our program: Croatia. Croatia is located on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, which was a very important body of water for the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Adriatic is actually a branch of the Mediterranean Sea.

Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for centuries and then became part of Yugoslavia in the 20th century. In 1991, Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia, which led to a period of conflict and war. The Croatian War of Independence lasted from 1991 to 1995 and resulted in significant casualties and damage to cities and infrastructure.

Since the war ended, Croatia has worked hard to rebuild and has become a stable and prosperous democracy. The country joined the European Union in 2013 and has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, known for its beautiful coastline, historic cities, and Mediterranean climate.

— Stop 27 —

Dubrovnik Cathedral

Dubrovnik’s cathedral was originally built in the 7th century, but it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries due to fires and earthquakes. The current building dates back to the 18th century. It was damaged during the Croatian War of Independence in the early 1990s, when it was shelled by Serbian forces. Its restoration in the aftermath of the war was seen as a symbol of the city’s rebirth, renewal, and perseverance.

— Stop 28 —

Dominican Monastery

This is the Dominican Monastery, founded in the 14th century by a group of Dominican friars who were invited to Dubrovnik by the city’s rulers. The building was constructed around the same time as the city walls in the 14th century, and on the outside, it looks more like a fortress than a religious complex. The monastery was an important center of learning and culture in the city’s history, and it contains an impressive art collection.

— Stop 29 —

Church of Saint Blaise and Sponza Palace

The building you can see in the center of the image here is the Church of Saint Blaise, which was built in the 18th century to honor the city’s patron saint, Saint Blaise. The church was built on the site of an earlier church that had been destroyed in an earthquake in 1667.

Across the plaza from the church is Sponza Palace, which was built in the 16th century as a customs house and a center for trade and commerce. It was also used as a bank and a treasury. The palace was one of the few buildings in Dubrovnik to survive the earthquake in 1667, and it has since been used for a variety of purposes, including as a city hall and a museum.

— Stop 30 —

Fort Lovrijenac

And finally, in the distance outside the city walls is Fort Lovrijenac (pronunciation), which was first built in the 11th century to defend Dubrovnik from potential attacks by foreign powers. It sits on top of a 120-foot-high sheer rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. The fortress was never conquered by foreign forces, despite numerous attempts. (If your students are old enough to know what Game of Thrones is: The fortress was used as the setting for the Red Keep in Game of Thrones, and it—and the city of Dubrovnik in general—has become a popular tourist attraction for fans of the TV series.)

— Stop 31 —

Hvar

Our next stop was the island of Hvar. It is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Croatia, and for good reason. The island is known for its beautiful beaches, crystal clear waters, and sunny weather. The main settlement on the island is also called Hvar, and the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

— Stop 32 —

Pakleni Islands

The next day, we went on a boat ride around the Pakleni or Paklinski Islands, located just off the coast of Hvar. The islands are known for their crystal-clear waters, hidden coves, and stunning natural beauty.

— Stop 33 —

Split

The final stop during our program was Split, Croatia’s second-largest city and home to some of the country’s most iconic landmarks. The city is more than 2,000 years old, first established as a colony of Ancient Greece in the 3rd century BC. Over the centuries it was ruled by a succession of different powers, including the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Austrians, and Yugoslavs.

The city is also famous for its delicious cuisine, which features fresh seafood, grilled meats, and local vegetables like Swiss chard. Some traditional dishes include pašticada (pronunciation), a slow-cooked beef stew, and soparnik (pronunciation), a savory pie made with chard and onions.

Under the Romans, the city was known as Spalatum and served as the retirement home for Emperor Diocletian.

— Stop 34 —

Diocletian’s Palace

Diocletian’s Palace still stands in Split today. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important Roman ruins in the world. Diocletian had the massive palace built in preparation for his retirement in 305 AD. It took over 10 years to construct, and it is built out of marble and white limestone imported from the nearby island of Brač (pronunciation). While it is referred to as a “palace” because it was intended to be used as the retirement residence of Diocletian, it is a massive structure that is more like a large fortress. About half of it was for Diocletian’s personal use, and the rest housed a Roman military garrison.

After the Romans abandoned the site, the Palace remained empty for several centuries. In the 7th century, nearby residents fled to the walled palace in an effort to escape an invading army. Since then, the palace has been occupied, with residents making their homes and businesses within the palace basement and directly in its walls.

— Stop 35 —

Cathedral of Saint Domnius

Inside Diocetian’s Palace, which is now the heart of the city’s old town, is the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, known locally as the Cathedral of Saint Duje. The cathedral was built in the 7th century AD and is one of the oldest cathedrals in the world. It’s a beautiful example of early Christian architecture and is dedicated to Saint Duje, the patron saint of Split.

The original structure was built by the Romans in 305 AD as the Mausoleum of Diocletian. The mausoleum was repurposed as a cathedral by the Byzantines and is now the main part of the Cathedral of Saint Duje. We were able to climb up the bell tower (which was added in 1100 AD) for excellent views of Split and the surrounding port area.

— Stop 36 —

Marjan’s Peak

Finally, for a panoramic view of the city and surrounding coastline, some of us climbed a nearby hill called Marjan. The hike took about an hour, but the views are well worth it. At the top, you can see the city’s red roofs, the harbor filled with boats, and the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic Sea. The hill is dotted with lovely little churches and has an historic Jewish cemetery.